The medieval town of Estremoz rises from the vast plain of the Alentejo, about fifty kilometres from Évora. It is the best-known centre of the so-called marble triangle, together with Borba and Vila Viçosa: here a fine white and pinkish marble has been quarried since Roman times, and it lines the town's doorsteps, stairs and pavements, making it shine. Portugal is one of the world's major producers and exporters of marble. Estremoz is an ideal stop for a relaxing couple of days while exploring the south of the country.
A little history
Because of its position near the border, Estremoz was an important stronghold, especially during the Restoration War against Spain (1640-1668). Queen Saint Isabel of Aragon, wife of King Dinis, venerated in Portugal as the Rainha Santa, died here in 1336. In the nineteenth century the area saw the civil war between the brothers Pedro and Miguel, which ended in nearby Evoramonte.
The castle and the Tower of the Three Crowns
The walled upper town is dominated by the keep, called the Torre das Três Coroas (Tower of the Three Crowns), 27 metres high: by tradition it owes its name to the three kings under whom it was built, Sancho II, Afonso III and Dinis. The castle was a royal residence, and next to the tower the palace now houses the Pousada Rainha Santa Isabel, one of the country's most beautiful historic hotels.
Visit the Capela da Rainha Santa, on the spot where the queen died, lined with eighteenth-century azulejos telling her life and the famous miracle of the roses. In the upper town are also King Dinis's audience hall, with a Gothic porch, and the church of Santa Maria.
The lower town and the clay figures
In the lower town lies the Rossio Marquês de Pombal, one of the largest squares in Portugal, where a famous market is held every Saturday with farm produce, cheeses, earthenware, antiques and bric-à-brac. Around it are the town hall, in the former Congregados convent, the Misericórdia church and the Palácio Tocha, with seventeenth-century azulejo panels.
The Municipal Museum holds archaeological collections, folk art and above all the bonecos de Estremoz, hand-painted clay figurines depicting saints, trades and scenes of rural life: this craft tradition was recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage in 2017, and you can visit the artisans' workshops in town.
Surroundings
A few kilometres away is Evoramonte, a fortified hilltop village with a fine castle, where in 1834 the convention was signed by which Miguel accepted defeat, ending the civil war: a plaque in the village marks the house where it was signed. To the west, in Pavia, in the municipality of Mora, you can visit the Anta de São Dinis, a large dolmen turned into a chapel. Near Monforte are the ruins of the Roman villa of Torre de Palma, with fine mosaics. Close by are the village of Borba, famous for wine and marble quarries, and ducal Vila Viçosa.
Festivals and tips
The main events include FIAPE, the international agriculture and crafts fair, in spring, and the festivities of the Rainha Santa Isabel, in early July. At the table, enjoy Alentejo cooking, black pork, sheep's cheeses and the region's wines. Estremoz is reached by car on the A6 motorway linking Lisbon with the Spanish border, or by bus from Lisbon and Évora.