Aveiro stands on the Ria de Aveiro, a vast coastal lagoon separated from the ocean by a long ribbon of dunes, halfway between Porto and Coimbra. Crossed by canals plied by brightly coloured boats with curved prows, it is often called the "Venice of Portugal": the comparison is a little generous, but this young university city is one of the most pleasant in the country.
The canals and moliceiros
The Canal Central runs through the heart of the city and is the starting point for boat trips on moliceiros, the traditional boats once used to gather moliço, lagoon seaweed used as fertiliser. Their prows and sterns are hand-painted with scenes of daily life, saints and, often, cheeky and ironic cartoons. Merchants' houses and the old fish market line the canals.
Art Nouveau and the centre
Aveiro has one of Portugal's richest Art Nouveau heritages, with façades decorated with azulejos, wrought iron and floral motifs, especially along the central canal and on Rua João Mendonça, where the Museu Arte Nova occupies one of the finest buildings. The old railway station is decorated with azulejo panels showing landscapes and customs of the region.
The Aveiro Museum and Saint Joana
The Aveiro Museum occupies the former convent of Jesus, where Princess Joana, daughter of King Afonso V, lived and died in 1490 after giving up court life to become a nun; she is venerated as a saint and patron of the city. Her Baroque tomb in polychrome marble is one of the museum's masterpieces, along with the church covered in gilded woodwork. The cathedral stands opposite.
Ovos moles and salt pans
Aveiro's signature sweet is ovos moles, a cream of egg yolks and sugar wrapped in thin wafer shaped like shells, fish and barrels, of convent origin and with protected geographical indication. On the edge of the city are the salt pans, where salt is still made by traditional methods and you can visit the Marinha da Troncalhada Ecomuseum. The lagoon is a paradise for birdwatching.
Surroundings
About ten kilometres away, across the lagoon, are the beaches of Barra, with Portugal's tallest lighthouse, and Costa Nova, with its famous striped houses (see Costa Nova and Ílhavo). Aveiro is linked to Porto by frequent trains (40 minutes to an hour) and to Lisbon by the Alfa Pendular in about two hours. Coimbra and the Buçaco forest are also close.