South of the Sado estuary, a long strip of sand, dunes and pine woods stretches for dozens of kilometres to Sines. In the middle is Comporta, a small village of rice farmers that in recent decades has become a chic retreat for architects, designers and holidaymakers seeking nature and simplicity, with no large hotels or tower blocks. The village belongs to the municipality of Alcácer do Sal, while the nearby Tróia peninsula belongs to Grândola.
Beaches and rice fields
Comporta's beaches, Carvalhal, Pego and Brejos da Carregueira, are wide expanses of pale sand facing the Atlantic, with a few wooden beach clubs and fish restaurants. Inland lie the rice fields of the Sado plains, dotted with herons and storks. Rice stars in local cooking, especially arroz de lingueirão (razor-clam rice) and seafood rice.
Carrasqueira
A few kilometres away, in the village of Carrasqueira, is the curious stilt pier: a maze of wooden walkways on poles, built by fishermen to reach their boats in the lagoon even at low tide. At sunset it is one of the most photographed spots on the coast.
Tróia and the Sado estuary
At the northern tip is the Tróia peninsula, with beaches, a resort and the Roman ruins of Tróia, one of the largest fish-salting and garum production complexes in the Roman Empire. Ferries run from Tróia to Setúbal. The Sado Estuary Nature Reserve is home to a resident community of bottlenose dolphins, which can be seen on boat trips, as well as flamingos and water birds.
Alcácer do Sal
The municipal seat, Alcácer do Sal, is a town on the banks of the Sado, with white houses overlooking the river and a castle of Arab origin, partly turned into a pousada; its ancient name, Salacia, recalls the importance of salt. Comporta is reached from Lisbon by car via the A2 motorway and Alcácer, or from Setúbal by the ferry to Tróia.