Between Lisbon and Sintra, in the now urbanised outskirts of the municipality of Sintra, hides one of Portugal's loveliest palaces: the Palácio Nacional de Queluz, often called the "little Portuguese Versailles". It is the country's finest example of Rococo architecture and makes a perfect half-day visit, perhaps on the way to Sintra.
History
The palace began in 1747 as the summer residence of the infante Pedro, brother of King Joseph I, who later married his niece, the future Queen Maria I, becoming king consort as Pedro III. Work was directed by the architect Mateus Vicente de Oliveira and then by the Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Robillion, who designed the gardens and part of the facades. After the 1755 earthquake destroyed the royal palace in Lisbon, Queluz grew in importance and from 1794 it was the royal family's official residence, until their departure for Brazil in 1807. Here Queen Maria I lived through her years of mental illness, and here Pedro IV, first Emperor of Brazil, was born and died.
The rooms
The tour passes through sumptuous rooms: the Throne Room, with mirrors, crystal chandeliers and gilded decoration, the Music Room, where concerts and operas were held, the Ambassadors' Room, with its chequered marble floor and painted ceiling, and the Don Quixote room, where Pedro IV was born and died, decorated with scenes from Cervantes's novel. The scale is more intimate than other royal palaces, which is precisely its charm.
The gardens
The French-inspired gardens are full of geometric hedges, fountains, lead statues and a cascade. Their most original feature is the azulejo canal, a long canal lined with tiles painted with sea scenes and landscapes, on which the court once boated during festivities. The palace's old kitchens house the Cozinha Velha restaurant, while opposite the palace the Pousada Dona Maria I lets you stay in a historic building. The Portuguese School of Equestrian Art sometimes performs in the stables and gardens with its Lusitano horses.
Getting there
Queluz is on the Sintra railway line from Rossio or Oriente stations: get off at Queluz-Belas and walk about a quarter of an hour to the palace. By car it is a few minutes from the IC19 road. It combines easily with visits to Sintra and Mafra.