Ericeira is an old fishing village on the Atlantic coast, in the municipality of Mafra, about fifty kilometres from Lisbon. Its white houses with blue trim, stone lanes and shady little squares overlook cliffs and small beaches. In recent decades it has become one of Europe's surf capitals: in 2011 it was the first place in Europe to be declared a World Surfing Reserve, for the quality and variety of its waves along a few kilometres of coast.
The village
The old town can be walked in an hour, around Praça da República, the heart of village life with its cafés, the mother church of São Pedro, the chapel of Santo António and viewpoints over the sea. Below, Praia dos Pescadores is still the fishermen's beach, with boats pulled up on the sand, while Praia do Sul and Praia do Norte are the town beaches. Every summer the village fills with young people, surfers and Lisbon families, but out of season it regains its calm.
Ericeira is also linked to a historic moment: on 5 October 1910, after the Republic was proclaimed, Portugal's last king, Manuel II, embarked from Praia dos Pescadores with the royal family to go into exile, first in Gibraltar and then in England. A plaque marks the event.
The waves
The reserve includes several world-class spots. Ribeira d'Ilhas, just north of the village, is the most famous beach, host to international contests; Coxos is a powerful wave for experienced surfers, while beaches such as Foz do Lizandro and São Lourenço also suit beginners. The village has many surf schools, shops and surf camps. The ocean is cool even in summer, so wetsuits are the norm.
Food
Ericeira is famous for fish and seafood: lobster, percebes, goose barnacles gathered from the rocks, and sea urchins, celebrated with a food festival. Seafront restaurants serve grilled fish, arroz de marisco and caldeirada.
Getting there
Ericeira is about an hour from Lisbon by bus from Campo Grande, or by car. It combines easily with a visit to the palace of Mafra, about ten kilometres away, and Sintra, further south.