Lousã is a town at the foot of the Serra da Lousã, a range of wooded mountains about 30 kilometres south-east of Coimbra. The town itself has a pleasant centre with fine mansions, but the real reason to come here is the schist villages scattered over the slopes.
The Aldeias do Xisto
The Aldeias do Xisto are a network of 27 villages in central Portugal built from schist, the dark, layered stone of the local mountains. Abandoned for decades through emigration, they have been restored since the 1990s and many have revived thanks to rural tourism. The Serra da Lousã has some of the finest: Talasnal, the best known, with restored houses, stone lanes and a couple of restaurants; Candal, beside the road, with tiered houses; Cerdeira, home to an artists' residence and craft workshops; Casal Novo and Chiqueiro. They are linked by trails through chestnut, oak and pine woods, with views over the valleys.
The castle and Senhora da Piedade
In a wooded gorge near town is Arouce castle, or Lousã castle, a small medieval fortress perched on a rock above the stream. Just below is the sanctuary of Senhora da Piedade, with chapels stepped up the rock, and a natural pool on the river, very popular in summer. It is one of the most evocative corners of the region.
Food and tips
Mountain cooking is based on chestnuts, honey, game, chanfana (goat stewed in red wine, a Coimbra-area speciality) and herb liqueurs. For the schist villages you need a car, or good legs for the trails. The hills also suit paragliding and mountain biking. Lousã is about 40 minutes from Coimbra; another famous mountain village in the region is Piódão.