Peso da Régua, on the right bank of the Douro, is considered the capital of the Douro valley, the region where port wine and some of Portugal's best red and white wines are made. Here begins the most spectacular part of the valley: steep schist hills shaped by people into thousands of vineyard terraces, held up by dry-stone walls, following the curves of the river.
The wine region
In 1756 the Marquis of Pombal created the Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro and marked out the production area with granite posts: it was one of the first demarcated and regulated wine regions in the world. In 2001 the landscape of the Alto Douro Wine Region was listed by UNESCO as a cultural landscape. For centuries casks went down the river to Vila Nova de Gaia on barcos rabelos; today they travel by road, but the link with the Gaia lodges remains.
What to do
The Douro Museum, in an old riverside warehouse, tells the story of the region, its wine and work in the vineyards. Douro cruises leave from the quay, from an hour to a full day, and the town is crossed by the Douro railway, one of the most scenic in Europe, which follows the river to Pinhão and Pocinho; in summer a historic steam train also runs. Around town, many viewpoints offer exceptional views of the valley, such as São Leonardo da Galafura, celebrated by the writer Miguel Torga. Many quintas, wine estates, offer tours, tastings and accommodation.
When to go
The best time is the harvest, in September and early October, when some quintas let you take part in picking and traditional foot-treading in granite lagares. In autumn the vines turn red and gold; summer is very hot. On the opposite bank is Lamego, with its sanctuary. Régua is about two hours from Porto by train or an hour and a quarter by car (A4 and A24). Further upstream is Pinhão.