After the French Way, the Portuguese Way is the busiest route to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, where tradition places the tomb of the apostle James. Tens of thousands of pilgrims walk it every year, for religious, spiritual or sporting reasons or simply for the pleasure of walking. It is less crowded and more varied than the French Way, with warm hospitality and excellent food.
History
The Portuguese Way is very old: already in the Middle Ages pilgrims of every class, including kings and queens, set out from Portugal for Santiago. The most famous was Queen Isabel of Aragon, the Holy Queen, wife of King Dinis, who made the pilgrimage in 1325. Pilgrims' hospitals, churches and bridges grew up along the route, many still visible.
The central route
The main route starts in Lisbon, about 620 kilometres from Santiago, and heads north through Santarém, Tomar and Coimbra to Porto. From Porto, the most popular starting point, it is about 240 kilometres, walkable in about ten days. The Portuguese stages pass through Barcelos, with its rooster legend, and Ponte de Lima, one of the loveliest towns on the route, before the toughest climb, over the Serra da Labruja. Then comes Valença, the fortress on the Minho, where you cross the international bridge to Galician Tui. Many pilgrims start right here, about 120 kilometres from Santiago, just over the minimum 100 kilometres on foot needed to earn the Compostela, the pilgrimage certificate.
The Coastal Way
An increasingly popular variant is the Coastal Way, which from Porto follows the Atlantic shore through Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim, Esposende, Viana do Castelo and Caminha, before entering Galicia at A Guarda and continuing along the coast to Vigo and Redondela, where it rejoins the central route. Part of the route follows wooden boardwalks over the dunes, with ocean views. There is also the Interior Way, from Viseu via Chaves to Verín, far less walked.
Practical information
- The credential: the "pilgrim's passport", to be stamped at every stage (at least two stamps a day in the last 100 km) to obtain the Compostela. It is available at cathedrals, associations or starting-point hostels.
- Waymarking: the route is marked by yellow arrows painted on walls, posts and pavements, and by markers with the scallop shell.
- Accommodation: along the route there are public and private hostels (albergues), guesthouses and small hotels; in high season it is wise to book.
- When to go: the best periods are May-June and September-October; summer is hot and busier, and in winter it often rains and many hostels are closed.
- Getting there: Lisbon and Porto have direct flights from many European cities (see getting to Portugal and Porto airport); from Santiago there are flights home or buses to Porto.