The south-west coast of the Alentejo is one of the best-preserved stretches of coastline in Europe: sheer cliffs, hidden beaches, dunes and river mouths, protected by the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. The municipality of Odemira, the largest in Portugal, covers its central part, and its seaside villages, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Almograve and Zambujeira do Mar, are among the Portuguese's favourite places for a summer away from the Algarve crowds.
Vila Nova de Milfontes
The largest village lies at the mouth of the Mira river, which forms a wide estuary of calm water, perfect for families, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. The centre of white houses is gathered around the fort of São Clemente, built in the late sixteenth century to defend the coast against pirates. There are many beaches: Praia da Franquia on the estuary, Praia das Furnas on the opposite bank, also reachable by boat, and the ocean beaches further north, such as Malhão. A statue recalls the landing of the biplane "Dilly", flown by two Portuguese aviators, in 1934.
Almograve and Zambujeira do Mar
Further south, Almograve is a small village with a fine beach between cliffs, and Zambujeira do Mar is a fishing village perched on a cliff, with a beach below the village and nearby coves such as Carvalhal and Alteirinhos. Every August Zambujeira hosts the MEO Sudoeste Festival, one of Portugal's best-attended music festivals.
The Rota Vicentina
This coast is the realm of the Rota Vicentina, a network of trails of more than 450 kilometres between Santiago do Cacém and Cape St Vincent. The most famous route is the Trilho dos Pescadores, the Fishermen's Trail, running along the clifftops over sand and rock, past storks nesting on sea stacks, dunes and coves, divided into stages of 15-20 kilometres. The inland Caminho Histórico crosses villages and countryside.
Practical information
The sea here is oceanic, often cold and rough: watch out for currents and choose lifeguarded beaches. Milfontes is about two and a half hours by car from Lisbon, and there are direct buses. Further south the coast continues towards Aljezur and Sagres.