On the hill west of Chiado lies the Bairro Alto, the upper district, created in the 16th century as one of the city's first planned expansions, with a grid of narrow, straight streets. It was the district of nobles, then of newspapers and printers, then of artists and sailors, and today it is the centre of Lisbon's nightlife. A little further north, Príncipe Real is the most elegant, fashionable district. It is part of the Lisbon guide.
Bairro Alto by day
By day the Bairro Alto is a quiet district of low houses, washing lines, workshops, small vintage and design shops, family restaurants and graffiti. Stroll streets like Rua da Rosa, Rua do Diário de Notícias and Travessa da Queimada, and see:
- the Jesuit church of São Roque, plain outside but lavish inside, with the chapel of São João Baptista, built in Rome with marble, lapis lazuli and mosaics, blessed by the pope and shipped to Lisbon in 1747: one of the most expensive chapels ever made. Next door is the São Roque Museum;
- the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, a terraced garden looking over the castle, Alfama and the Baixa, once reached by the Glória funicular from Praça dos Restauradores: on 3 September 2025 the car derailed, killing sixteen people, and the funicular will stay closed until a new system is built, expected later this decade;
- the Santa Catarina viewpoint, called Adamastor after the giant of The Lusiads, looking over the river and bridge, a young crowd's sunset meeting point;
- Bica, the steep district below the Bairro Alto, with the famous Bica funicular of 1892 climbing between the houses, one of Lisbon's most photographed spots, suspended as a precaution since September 2025.
Bairro Alto by night
In the evening the district changes face. From about 10pm, hundreds of tiny bars open their doors and people drink in the street, glass bought at the counter, in one big party filling every street until 2am. The crowd is young and international, prices low, music of every genre. There are also a few casas de fado and traditional restaurants. In recent years the city has introduced rules on hours and noise to protect residents, and drinking in the street is not always allowed: check the current rules. After 2am the night moves to Cais do Sodré or riverside clubs. See nightlife.
Príncipe Real
Walking up Rua Dom Pedro V from the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint you reach Príncipe Real, a 19th-century district of colourful mansions, villas with gardens and boutiques. Its heart is the Jardim do Príncipe Real, with a giant Bussaco cedar whose branches form a parasol over twenty metres wide, a kiosk and the Patriarcal cistern, a 19th-century underground reservoir you can visit. Around it:
- Embaixada, a neo-Moorish palace turned into a gallery of Portuguese design shops;
- boutiques of fashion, ceramics, jewellery and local designers' objects along Rua da Escola Politécnica;
- the university Botanical Garden, an oasis of tropical plants;
- the National Museum of Natural History and Science;
- the Saturday organic and craft market in the garden.
Príncipe Real is also the centre of Lisbon's LGBTQ+ life, with historic bars and venues.
Tips
- If staying in the Bairro Alto, expect night-time noise until late, especially at weekends.
- The district is steep: with the Glória and Bica funiculars closed, walk up, take bus 758 or a taxi.
- Watch for pickpockets in the night-time crowds.
- For a quiet dinner choose Príncipe Real or Santos.
See also Baixa and Chiado and viewpoints.