Lisbon's food is direct, generous and tied to the sea: grilled fish, seafood, salt cod, soups, pork and extraordinary convent-born pastries. Eating still costs less than in many European capitals, especially in tascas, neighbourhood eateries. It is part of the Lisbon guide; for the national cuisine see Portuguese food.
Typical dishes
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Bacalhau | Salt cod, said to have 365 recipes: à Brás (shredded with eggs and matchstick potatoes), com natas (baked with cream), à Gomes de Sá, assado grilled |
| Sardinhas assadas | Grilled sardines, the dish of June nights, served on a slice of bread |
| Polvo à lagareiro | Roast octopus with olive oil, garlic and crushed potatoes |
| Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato | Clams with garlic, coriander, oil and lemon |
| Arroz de marisco | Soupy seafood rice |
| Caldo verde | Potato and shredded kale soup with a slice of chouriço |
| Bifana | A roll with pork slices marinated in garlic and wine |
| Prego | A thin steak sandwich, often eaten at the end of a cervejaria meal |
| Peixinhos da horta | Battered green beans, ancestors of Japanese tempura |
| Pastéis de bacalhau | Salt cod and potato fritters |
Pastéis de nata
The pastel de nata is Lisbon's symbol: a crisp puff-pastry tart with egg custard caramelised on top, eaten warm with cinnamon. It was born in the Jerónimos monastery; the original recipe is guarded by Pastéis de Belém, open since 1837 (see Belém). In town those at Manteigaria and many neighbourhood pastry shops are excellent too. Other sweets include queijadas, Sintra's travesseiros, pão de ló and convent pastries made with egg yolks and sugar. See Portuguese sweets.
Cervejarias and seafood
Cervejarias, literally beer halls, are big, noisy places serving seafood by weight: prawns, crab, goose barnacles, clams and lobster, washed down with draught beer and finished with a prego. They are a typical Lisbon experience worth trying at least once.
Petiscos and tascas
Petiscos are small sharing plates, like tapas: flamed chouriço, cheeses, ham, octopus, lupin beans, octopus salad. Tascas are simple, often family-run eateries with handwritten menus and a cheap prato do dia, dish of the day: the best way to eat like a local.
Markets
- Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira), in Cais do Sodré: stalls from famous chefs and historic restaurants under one roof, crowded but convenient.
- Campo de Ourique Market: calmer and popular with residents.
- Arroios Market and neighbourhood markets for shopping.
What to drink
- Vinho verde, a young, slightly sparkling white from the Minho, perfect with fish.
- Reds from the Alentejo and Douro, and Lisbon-region wines such as Colares and Bucelas.
- Ginjinha, sour-cherry liqueur, in tiny bars around the Rossio, sometimes served in a chocolate cup.
- Port (see port wine) and Setúbal moscatel.
- Sagres or Super Bock beer, and an espresso, the bica, after the meal.
Hours and rules
- Lunch is between 12.30 and 2.30pm and dinner from 7.30 to 10pm, a little earlier than in Spain.
- The couvert: bread, butter, olives or cheese brought to the table unordered are charged if you eat them; if you don't want them, send them back.
- Tipping is optional; leave a few coins or 5-10%.
Tips
- Avoid restaurants with touts in the Baixa and on Rua Augusta.
- For sardines and festivals go in June, in the streets of Alfama and Mouraria.
- For dinner with fado see nightlife.