About six kilometres from the centre, where the Douro flows into the Atlantic, Porto becomes a seaside city. Foz do Douro, literally the mouth of the Douro, is the elegant district of 19th-century villas and seafront cafés; further north, in Matosinhos, are surfers' beaches and some of Portugal's best seafood restaurants. It is part of the Porto guide.
Getting there
The loveliest way is the historic tram number 1, leaving from Infante near the Ribeira and running along the river to Passeio Alegre in Foz in about twenty minutes. Alternatively:
- bus 500, which from São Bento and Praça da Liberdade follows the same riverside route and continues along the ocean to Matosinhos; sit on the upper deck;
- metro line A (blue) to Matosinhos;
- on foot or by bike along the river, about an hour and a half from the Ribeira, one of the city's finest walks.
Foz do Douro
Where the tram stops lies Jardim do Passeio Alegre, a 19th-century garden with palms, kiosks and two tall obelisks. From here walk along Avenida do Brasil and Avenida de Montevideu, the seafront with villas, cafés and little beaches among the rocks. Don't miss:
- Felgueiras lighthouse at the end of the pier, where waves crash spectacularly on rough days;
- São João Baptista Fort, the 16th-century fortress at the river mouth;
- the Pergolado, a long white neoclassical pergola on the seafront, Foz's symbol;
- Castelo do Queijo, the 17th-century fort built on a large rock shaped like a cheese, on the border with Matosinhos;
- the Parque da Cidade, Portugal's largest urban park, stretching to the sea.
Matosinhos
Matosinhos is Porto's fishing port and a lively town with a long sandy beach, popular with surfers year-round thanks to regular waves and many surf schools. The area around Rua Heróis de França is famous for grilled fish restaurants: you choose fresh fish from the display, pay by weight and eat it grilled over charcoal outdoors, with potatoes, salad and vinho verde. It is one of northern Portugal's most authentic food experiences. See eating in Porto.
Leça da Palmeira and Álvaro Siza
Beyond Leixões port, in Leça da Palmeira, are two of Álvaro Siza's first works: the tidal pools (Piscinas das Marés) of 1966, seawater pools built among the rocks so they seem part of the landscape, open in summer; and the Boa Nova Tea House, now a Michelin-starred restaurant set into the rocks. Along the coast is also the modern Leixões cruise terminal, shaped like a white spiral.
Beaches and sea
The ocean here is cold: the water rarely exceeds 18-19 degrees even in August, and there is often wind and morning fog. The beaches are still packed in summer, and the seafront is perfect for running, cycling and watching the sun set over the ocean, one of the finest moments of a Porto visit. Heed the lifeguards' flags: currents can be strong.
Tips
- Take tram 1 out and bus 500 or the metro back.
- For sunset, an aperitif at one of the Foz seafront bars.
- In Matosinhos book dinner at the best-known restaurants, especially at weekends.
- Bring a sweatshirt: even in summer, ocean evenings are cool.
See also Porto neighbourhoods and what to see.