East of Porto, the Douro flows through a deep, winding valley between hills that people have sculpted for centuries into vineyard terraces held up by dry-stone schist walls. This is the Alto Douro wine region, the world's oldest demarcated wine region (1756) and since 2001 a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where port and some of Portugal's best red and white wines are made. It is part of the Porto guide; see also the Porto and Douro region and port wine.
Getting there
- By train: the Douro line leaves from São Bento or Campanhã and, after Marco de Canaveses, runs along the river to Peso da Régua, Pinhão and Pocinho, one of Europe's most scenic rail routes. It takes about two and a half hours to Pinhão. Sit on the right. In summer a historic steam train also runs between Régua and Tua (see scenic trains).
- By cruise: boats leave Porto and travel upriver through the dam locks to Régua or Pinhão, returning by train or coach; multi-day cruises also exist.
- By car: about an hour and a half to Régua by motorway, then scenic riverside roads such as the N222 between Régua and Pinhão, considered one of the world's most beautiful drives.
- On an organised tour: many Porto agencies run day trips with visits to two quintas, lunch and a short boat ride.
Peso da Régua
Peso da Régua is the gateway to the valley and its commercial centre. The Douro Museum tells the story of the landscape, the wine and the people who created it. Short cruises and the historic train leave from the riverfront.
Pinhão
Pinhão is the heart of the quality port area, surrounded by some of the most famous quintas. Its small station is decorated with 24 azulejo panels depicting the harvest and Douro landscapes. From here you can take short trips in traditional boats and walks among the vineyards.
The quintas
Quintas are the valley's wine estates. Many welcome visitors for tours, tastings, lunches and even overnight stays, in farm stays and boutique hotels with pools overlooking the river. They include properties of the big port producers and small family estates. Booking ahead is best.
Viewpoints
- São Leonardo de Galafura, above Régua, celebrated by the poet Miguel Torga.
- Casal de Loivos, above Pinhão, overlooking the river's meanders.
- São Salvador do Mundo, near São João da Pesqueira.
When to go
- Spring: the vines turn green, and almond trees blossom in February-March in the upper valley.
- Summer: intense heat in the valley, often over 35 degrees.
- September and early October: the harvest, the most evocative time, when some quintas still tread grapes by foot in granite lagares.
- October-November: the vineyards turn red and gold.
Tips
- A day trip is possible, but the Douro deserves at least one night in a quinta.
- If driving, choose a driver who won't drink: the roads are narrow and winding.
- Combine the Douro with Amarante, Guimarães or the town of Lamego with its baroque sanctuary.
See also day trips from Porto.