On the south bank of the Douro, in Vila Nova de Gaia, stand the caves, the port wine lodges, their names painted large on the roofs: Sandeman, Taylor's, Graham's, Cockburn's, Cálem, Ferreira, Kopke, Offley, Ramos Pinto. For centuries wine made in the Douro valley came down the river to age here in the cooler, damper coastal climate before being exported worldwide. It is part of the Porto guide; for history and wine styles see port wine.
A little history
Port was born in the 17th century, when English merchants, at war with France and seeking alternative wines, began adding brandy to Douro wines to preserve them on the sea voyage. The Methuen Treaty of 1703 boosted exports to England, and many lodges still have English or Scottish names. In 1756 the Marquis of Pombal created the Douro demarcated region, the world's first. Until the 20th century the wine came down the river on barcos rabelos, square-sailed, flat-bottomed boats; today it travels by road, but some rabelos are moored in front of the lodges and race every 24 June.
Tours and tastings
Almost all the big lodges offer guided tours in several languages, lasting about an hour, showing the barrels and vats, explaining production and ending with a tasting of two or three wines. There are also premium tastings of aged ports, tours paired with chocolate or cheese, and courses. Booking is wise, especially in summer and at weekends. Some famous lodges:
- Taylor's, high on the hill, with a peacock garden and a panoramic restaurant;
- Graham's, with a spectacular view of Porto;
- Sandeman, with its famous caped, hatted "Don" figure;
- Cálem, on the riverfront, with a small interactive museum and fado evenings;
- Ferreira, the only big house still Portuguese-owned, linked to the legendary Dona Antónia Ferreira;
- Kopke, the oldest, founded in 1638.
Port styles
| Style | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Ruby | Young, fruity, deep red, briefly aged in large vats |
| Tawny | Long aged in small casks, amber, with dried-fruit notes; available as 10, 20, 30 and 40 years old |
| White | From white grapes, dry or sweet; with tonic it becomes Porto tónico, the summer aperitif |
| Rosé | Recent, light, served chilled |
| LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) | A single vintage, bottled after 4-6 years |
| Vintage | Only in exceptional years, ages for decades in bottle |
| Colheita | A single-vintage tawny |
WOW and the Gaia riverfront
In 2020 WOW (World of Wine) opened, a large cultural quarter in restored old lodges, with museums on wine, cork, fashion, chocolate and Porto's history, plus restaurants and bars. The Gaia riverfront, Cais de Gaia, is full of restaurants and bars with the best views of the Ribeira, especially at sunset.
Cable car and viewpoints
The Gaia cable car links the riverfront with the upper town, at the level of the Dom Luís I Bridge's upper deck, in a few minutes over the lodge roofs. At the top, Jardim do Morro is the favourite spot for watching the sunset over Porto, and the Serra do Pilar Monastery, a Renaissance monastery with a circular cloister, has an extraordinary panoramic terrace. See the Ribeira and bridges.
Tips
- Walk to the lodges from the Ribeira across the lower deck of the Dom Luís I Bridge.
- Don't plan more than two or three tastings in one afternoon.
- To buy bottles, lodge prices are often better than at airports; ask about shipping directly.
- To see where the wine is made, take a trip to the Douro valley.